Category Archives: Bicycling

Further Adventures in Cycling Beyond 70: Road Trip Summer 2017, Prologue

In 2016, we started our travels with a self-supported, self-contained bicycle tour. 600 km into the tour, we decided the road ahead was too dangerous and some of the stages too far, and reconsidered our bicycling future. The rest of the season, we traveled by car to interesting venues and fun, safe trails. By the end of the summer, we purchased an older (1996) cargo van and planned to use it as a bicycle transporter and camping shelter. We became more convinced this was the way to proceed after a long road trip in the car with the bicycle on top, greatly reducing our fuel economy.

Over the winter, we struggled with water leaks in the van, making yet another car trip, sans bicycle. On our return, we resolved the leaks, purged the resulting mold, and began to outfit the van with a sleeping platform that contained storage for our other camping equipment while leaving room for the bicycle. The platform folds in sections: the first allows room to move the bicycle in and out; the second folds the center section up to accommodate larger cargo between the wheel wells.

Our first van trip was to central Idaho, camping overnight en route to and from a resort outing with friends. Our first bicycle rides of the season were on snowy trails around McCall and the paved portions of a waterlogged gravel trail in a nearby valley. By June, we had signed up for a charity ride in Shelton, beginning to do some road rides to train. The week before the ride, we tested our endurance on a ride the length of the charity ride. We passed with flying colors, but the bicycle frame broke at the target distance. The chainstay on the drive side, where the most stress occurs, developed a crack that, over time, spread around the weld, finally giving way.

We delivered the bicycle to the factory in Eugene, Oregon to be welded and tuned for the rest of the season. The trip to Eugene showed us that the van needed a lot more mechanical work to be ready for an extended road trip, so we  used savings to take care of necessary repairs.

Meanwhile, we dusted off the old Santana tandem we had ridden for 25 years before we bought the new Bike Friday machine, and used it to ride the 32-km charity ride, plus a few other rides on local roads and trails, eventually totaling 168 km (104 miles). The other bicycle was supposed to be ready before our planned trip to Victoria, British Columbia, but wasn’t. The second trip to Eugene resulted in a “check engine” alert on the van, so a final trip to the repair shop for final adjustments gave us confidence that our aging truck was ready for an extended adventure.

On the Galloping Goose Trail, north of Sooke, BC, Canada.

The Victoria trip led us on several trails on Vancouver Island that weren’t paved, and the Santana proved a better choice for those paths. We had an uneventful series of rides, though with great scenery and lots of other trail users. On return, we continued to refine our camping arrangements, installing a satellite radio dock, upholstering the sleeping platform, and reducing the bike trailer to one of the two cases, as we don’t intend to break down the bike or spend more than one night at a time away from the car and don’t need the extra towing capacity. We also picked up some open-top plastic crates to hold our clothing and food supplies that fit well under the platform.

Road Trip Summer 2017 evolved as a Grand Tour: we would visit friends in northern Idaho, then family and friends in western Montana before heading east to visit family in Minnesota and Wisconsin.  On the way, we would stop over in Lincoln, Nebraska for the solar eclipse and ride bike trails in Nebraska and Iowa, plus what time permitted in Montana, Wisconsin, and Minnesota.

The final preparations were to arrange for the mail to be held and check 20-year-old Delia into Just Cats Hotel. And, unload the Santana to make room for the Bike Friday, which we would pick up in Eugene on the first leg of our journey.

To Be Continued…

Warm Showers Hosting

WarmShowers.org is a web-based organization that connects bicycle tourists with hosts to share lodging while on tour.  There are no fees, except for voluntary donations from members to keep the web site running, and accommodation provided to guests at no cost.  The accommodations offered range from a place to pitch a tent with access to toilet and shower facilities to a furnished guest room or cottage with full meals, laundry service, sag service (transporting bikes, gear, and riders from their route to the accommodation or to/from bicycle repair shops, train or bus stations, or airports), and minor repairs.  Guests, in turn, often bring food to share or small presents for the hosts, if convenient to do so.  We provide “all the above,” serving an evening meal and  breakfast.  Occasionally, guests will offer to cook or treat us to dinner out, but we know from experience that a hot shower and warm meal after a long day on tour is most welcome, and a good breakfast starts the next day’s tour off right.

We first became aware of Warm Showers in the early 2000s when we lived in Hamilton, Montana, 80 km south of the headquarters of Adventure Cycling Association (ACA), and on the Transamerica and Lewis and Clark routes. There were several hosts in town and we were still working, so we didn’t sign up then. But, in the fall of 2009, we moved to western Washington, 70 km south of Bremerton, to a small town on the ACA Pacific Coast Route, Seattle Connector for the Washington Parks Route, and the route in the Kirkendall-Spring book “Cycling the Pacific Coast.”  We bought a large 1920s Craftsman bungalow near downtown, and found ourselves full-up the first year, with grown children and grandchildren taking up the extra bedrooms while we all waited out the slump in the housing market to sell our former houses. Both of us continued to work at our home-based businesses, in computer consulting and long-arm quilting services.

After the family moved out, and we settled into semi-retirement, we bought a new tandem bicycle in the spring of 2011 and planned to tour again. We had gone on several multi-day tours in the 1980s, but had just taken day rides since, despite planning longer tours. Since we had three extra bedrooms now, we decided to join Warm Showers as hosts, to give us an opportunity for lodging when and if we started touring again, and to become part of the bicycle touring community, meeting other tourists and sharing stories.

Not long after we joined and shortly after we took delivery of our new bicycle, we got our first guest, Todd, who was also new to Warm Showers. The experience was perfectly natural for both of us, and we never looked back: in the six years since, we have hosted more than 160 guests, stayed with five Warm Showers hosts while on our own tours, and have so far met with one other host in a town a day’s ride away, and kept touch with her and others through social media.

Todd – Vancouver, BC – Imperial Beach, CA

Over the years, our guest list has included five small children under the age of five, and two dogs. We’ve also had two adult mother-daughter teams and one father-son team. Our guests have ranged in age from 8 months to early 70s, but most are in the 25-45 age range.

Reuben, Heidi, Eden, and Harper – Toronto to Cheyenne, Vancouver, BC to Panama City, Panama, Richmond to Toronto: one year, 8000 miles.

In the early years, we would sometimes ride out with our guests in the morning, up to 20 or 25 km. Sarah, below, on her second tour and first solo tour, was a bit apprehensive about cycling the back roads, but continued on another 20 days. We’ve kept in touch: she has had some amazing adventures in Patagonia and across the country, and now works as a tour guide  for ACA.

Tour-season sendoff at the Bucks Prairie Store, Cloquallum
Riding to Olympia with our first Warm Showers guest of the season, Andreas. (at Island Market, halfway)

Located a day’s ride from Seattle and three to five days ride from Vancouver, we found that a lot of our guests were in a “shakedown” stage of their tours: mechanical problems tend to show up within a few days of starting out. We also noted that, if guests arrived on a Surly, Salsa, Kona, or other brand specifically designed and built for long-distance loaded touring, we would send them off in the morning with no more than topping off tires and water bottles. The bike-shop road bikes, overloaded or without front racks, would get loaded onto the car bike rack and sagged off to the nearest bike shop, 30 km away in Olympia. Bike shops normally have a minimum shop fee and a two-to-three-week turn-around time, but I was able to make a deal with a neighborhood shop to get tourist’s bikes in first thing in the morning so they were on their way by noon. Most we rerouted with maps from the bike shop back to their intended route.

A broken disc brake meant a trip to the bike shop for one of this threesome. We went south and they other two went west.  I plotted a route for him from the bike shop to intercept his fellow travelers: they met up and were able to get to shelter before the afternoon thunderstorms arrived.
While loading her bike, I noticed a broken spoke, so it was off to the bike shop, and reroute her to get back on track. The bike shop was in the right general direction, so she didn’t lose any time.

While we advertise a maximum of four guests (we have two furnished guest rooms with queen beds), we rarely turn away “drop-in” guests who call the same day.  The group above called from a few blocks away on a rainy evening after we had already set dinner for two guests who had arrived earlier.  We ordered pizza delivery while setting up sleeping space in the living room and craft studio for the extras.  We’ve also set up an air mattress in the upstairs craft studio when we’ve had three or more guests who didn’t want to share a bed.

Sometimes, we get guests going both directions: the foursome above had two headed for Seattle after riding around the Olympic Peninsula, the other two coming from Vancouver, headed for California.

In this case, the couple with the baby found their friend (with the dog) was traveling the same direction, but by a different route, and arranged to meet at our house.  We met her on the road while returning home that day and led her to our house before her friends arrived.

On our own tour, we didn’t plan on using Warm Showers for the last half, as we had shipped our camping gear home earlier, but Scot spotted us in a grocery store parking lot and brought us home, giving up his own bedroom to sleep on the sofa.

First post-surgery meal, in the ICU

The only time we cancelled on guest reservations: I failed a treadmill test and woke up with a 20-cm incision down my chest and tubes hanging out.  And a spot on my leg where they had borrowed one of those good bicycling veins to bypass a clogged artery in my heart.  That also put us on the “unavailable” list for the rest of the summer.

Jameson had made a reservation for the previous day, but his mileage estimates were off, so he just stopped by for coffee and a chat midday the next day in early June, and didn’t stay. He is a yoga instructor, so we had something in common besides a love of cycling.

We’ve had a number of Warm Showers members who have made contact and gotten information, or who have miscalculated weather, distance, or other factors that caused them to cancel or undershoot or overshoot us.  Some have shifted dates after first contact.  It’s always good to update hosts with projected arrival times, delays, etc.

Several years ago, Eric ran into late-season wet, cold weather, leaving him stranded “in the middle of nowhere” wet, cold, and in the dark.  We got a call at 7:30 in the evening, after he had tried to contact many other hosts near his location.  We made a 60-km run to rescue him.  He had been touring continuously for over a year and his rain gear was worn out, not that it would have done much good in the cold November rain.  He has since ridden the GDMBR (Great Divide Mountain Bike Race) and rode the first 1000 km of the Transamerica race.  We’ve since upgraded our sag vehicle from a small SUV with a tandem rack on top to a cargo van.

We keep a small collection of toys our grandsons outgrew, to entertain our younger guests.  Toddlers take readily to touring, as long as the parents juggle nap time and play time into their riding schedules.  Older children do well on tandems, triples, and pedal trailers.

We usually cook, but some guests like to have a home-cooked meal of their own, and treat us.  We’ve collected a few good recipes from guests.  We convinced this  couple to stay and extra day and continue by public transit on Monday during a period of cold and wet weather, so they took over the cooking chores after a day out downtown.  We live within walking distance of a movie theater, supermarket, several restaurants and coffee shops, and the public library, giving guests an opportunity to explore a bit off the bike.

Some of our guests have overextended or had mechanical problems, arriving courtesy of passers-by who sagged them to our house. Sometimes—and we have first-hand experience ourselves, on tour—those “tour angels” spot trouble before the riders realize they could use help. We do now offer sag service, having acquired a van for our own rail-trail touring plans, but there are areas of poor cell service in our area, so calling for pickup is not always an option.    We have hosted guests from a dozen different countries: some have purchased SIM cards to use their phones in the U.S., but some don’t, relying on WiFi for data connections.

Our father-son team, above, and a mother-daughter team, below.  The mother, below, turned out to be friends with long-time friends of ours who live in her home town.  Over the years, we’ve hosted cyclists who know each other, or who have stayed as guests at hosts who have been our guests.  We’ve read tales of guests meeting up with other guests farther down the coast and riding together or staying at the same other hosts.  It’s a small community, considering.

Over the years, we’ve met so many people from many countries, of all ages, and different work backgrounds, but the thing we have in common is that we all crazy in the same way–we just have to get on our bicycles and pedal off over the horizon now and then.  Being hosts has kept us active in cycling: since opening our doors to Warm Showers guests in our late 60s, we’ve made three tours of a week or more, and many day trips, often on trails across the country.  Since joining Warm Showers, we’ve logged more than 5000 km, despite nearly a year off to recover from heart surgery.

As we get older, hosting becomes a bit of a burden, especially during the busy season, when we get one to four guests  a night for several days running.  This year, we decided to book time for ourselves to train and prepare for our own outings, limiting hosting to a few short periods during the season.  For a couple of years, we were the only hosts in our town, so we were reluctant to turn away guests, but now there are three in town and a couple of others not far away.

Our hosting facilities:

The Warm Shower, result of a major bathroom upgrade a few years ago.
The primary guest room, on the first floor.
The “bicycle room” on the second floor, with several pieces of bicycle art and books.
For coffee drinkers, we supply made-to-order espresso drinks, press, or Kuerig.
For tea drinkers, we keep a wide selection of black, green, and herbal teas.
Laundry facilities are also available to guests.
For canine guests or those allergic to cats, we can accommodate a tent or two on the porch. Bicycles get locked in the garage, which can be accessed through the basement.

Of course, meals are prepared in the kitchen and served in the dining room, photos of both shown earlier with guests.  Evening conversation moves to the living room, where there is a gas fireplace for chilly evenings and mornings. The covered porch, patio, and lower deck are also available for conversation or privacy in warm weather. We offer high-speed Internet (cable) with WiFi, and have a small older laptop with a guest account for use if needed. We often print out Google maps and cue sheets for custom routes, and have supplied GPS track files or Google map links via email or message.

We have a floor pump with Presta and Schrader fittings for use by guests, and the usual tools for minor repairs, including degreaser and shop rags. In addition to limited sag service with our own vehicles, Mason County Transit buses run Monday through Saturday from downtown Shelton, with bike racks and service to Olympia, Bremerton, and Brinnon, with connections to Grays Harbor County (Montesano & Aberdeen) and Jefferson County (Port Townsend) transit services as well as Kitsap County transit, the Washington State Ferries to Seattle, and the Olympia Intercity Transit with connection to Amtrak. Roll-on bicycle service is available on Amtrak at the Olympia-Lacey terminal with service to Seattle, Portland, and Eugene.

Over the years, in addition to delivering bikes to the bike shop in the city, we’ve also made runs to the nearby hardware store for missing or stripped stainless steel metric screws, safety-wired a homemade trailer hitch, supplied a spare tire from our stash, and delivered articles left, either in person or by parcel service. We’ve answered queries from travelers who didn’t stay with us, including route advice, and where to leave your car when starting/ending a tour nearby (try a self-storage yard). Not surprisingly, we’ve had reciprocal treatment when we travel–hosts picking up most of our gear for the last few miles, sag lifts from strangers met on the road, a lift to a bike shop for supplies, awesome meals, and close-up encounters feeding apples to a captive elk herd. Being part of the Warm Showers community enriches our lives and is a means of paying forward all the kindnesses done for us over the years, cycling or not.

Last, but not least, being a part of Warm Showers brings us closer to the bicycle touring community and makes it more likely for us to reach out to tourists we see that could use a hand.  A couple of weeks ago, we were at a nearby (20 km)  bakery on a rainy day when an older bicycle tourist came in to dry out and warm up, intending to wait out the rain, even if it meant bivouacking behind the bakery.  We struck up a conversation, soon recognizing him as a legend among the world trekking and bicycle touring folks, as well as in his home country, Australia, for his cycling exploits and trekking with camels around Australia.  The rain subsided somewhat, later that day, and Klaus took us up on our invite to spend the night, even though he wasn’t a  Warm Showers member.  Normally, we’d ask tourists we meet this way to join (that’s how we recruit), but Klaus has been nomadic for 23 years and, at 69, doesn’t plan to settle down anytime soon.  He also prefers to camp wherever the day ends, but was grateful for a chance to dry his gear and sleep out of the rain.  And, we were glad to have met him, hear his stories first hand, and to have a chance to ride with a legend, if only a short way to send him off on the next leg of his life-long adventure.

Klaus Menzel, “The Camel Man of the Outback,” world traveler, and a very interesting fellow.

Warm Showers 2017 (part 1)

Once again, our Warm Showers hosting season will be in multiple parts, due to our own touring plans.  Despite the cold and rainy spring, we had a surprising number of early tourists headed for warmer climes.

Madhuri & Michelle

Madhuri, from Vancouver, and Michelle, from southern California, arrived in mid-March, traveling light and staying at Warm Showers and motels, as most campgrounds were not open yet. They made the trip from Vancouver to San Ysidro (Mexican border) in 36 days, very impressive, considering the wet and cold weather.

Tim & Ashleigh

Tim and Ashleigh, from Australia, had trekked all around the world over the past two years, but were on their first bicycle tour, starting in late March in Vancouver and arriving via Vancouver Island and U.S. 101. The unfamiliar bike, wet weather, and heavy traffic on narrow shoulders didn’t suit Ashleigh very well, prompting her to bus from Quilcene to Shelton, while Tim rode from Brinnon.

Tim and Ashleigh stayed over two days, so they cooked dinner the second night.

Sunday dawned with heavy cold rain, so we convinced them to stay over, which they did, taking the bus to Olympia on Monday and taking trails to the Amtrak station to travel to Portland to reconsider their schedule and itinerary.

Lexi and Mary

We had gone on travel in April, so didn’t get any more guests until May, when the weather improved a little. Lexi, from Montana and now Utah, and Mary, from Boston, had met a few years ago on a Bike & Build crew and decided to ride the Pacific Coast Route this year. Perusing our book of past guests, they discovered that we had hosted two other members of their Bike ‘n Build crew shortly after their session ended in Seattle in 2013.

Ingrid

Shortly after Lexi and Mary left, Ingrid arrived from Vancouver on a tour of the Pacific Coast before moving back to her native Switzerland. We had to leave early the next morning, so left Ingrid to pack up in a more leisurely manner. We like to photograph guests in full touring kit (bike, panniers, other equipment), but when we leave before they do, we get indoor photos.

Zoe et Hortense

Sisters Zoë and Hortense, originally from France, but having studied and worked in Canada and Belgium, traveling together down the Pacific Coast.  The second week in May was one of our busiest, with five guests successive nights.  With such a pipeline of riders extending down the coast, it was inevitable they should meet.  Zoë and Hortense met up with Mary and Lexi the last few days of their tour, ending up at the same host the same night in southern California.

Chris

Chris arrived the next weekend, after we passed up a few travelers to recover from colds. Chris has been on a series of 2000-mile tour segments covering all 50 states, interviewing people he meets for a book, titled “Conversations with US.” Unlike most travelers, he came from the south, having ridden as far east as Crater Lake, Portland and Astoria. He was finishing this stage of his continental tour in Seattle and taking a short break before finishing his research in Alaska and Hawaii.  Unfortunately, he didn’t make his Kickstarter goal for the book project, but we hope he gets a second chance.

Robin and Noemie

Robin and Noëmie, also from France, arrived mid-week.  They were interested in an expanded Pacific Coast experience, and wanted to travel through the mountains to the Columbia Gorge and Portland.  Their schedule seemed to allow enough time to do that, so we helped them plot a route between Mt. Adams and Mt. St. Helens and sent them off to REI in Olympia for paper maps and a better water purifying system.

“Ryan” (Byungchul) and “Kelly,” from South Korea, are riding the Pacific Coast route both ends to the middle: they started in San Diego, but found the prevailing winds against them, so took the train from San Francisco to Seattle to head back to San Francisco. Their first day got a bit long, with riding from Ballard to Coleman Dock and then Bremerton to Shelton via WA Highway 3, a stressful ordeal. As they approached Oakland Bay and the most dangerous section of Hwy 3, a couple from Hartstine Island gave them a lift into town so they arrived before dark.

We helped them plan out a more bicycle-friendly route south, with choices of inland or coastal routes. In the end, they decided to head for Portland, with Eugene as a probable destination via the Willamette Valley, rather than the sometimes intimidating and hilly coast route. Ryan has ridden Los Angeles to New York, some years ago, but Kelly is a novice rider, and is still struggling with hills and traffic, despite having completed over 1000 km of their tour.  As I sometimes do, I broke out my old Specialized Hard Rock (“Rocky”) to lead them out to Arcadia and WA 3 to get them started toward Olympia and Millersylvania State Park.

Lindy, professional weaver from New Zealand and long-time Warm Showers host, on her first tour as a guest.

We’d expected a fellow weaver and bicycle tourist in early June, but otherwise, we’ve temporarily disconnected from Warm Showers to give us time to train for this summer’s planned bicycling activities, now that good weather is here and most of the tourists would rather camp anyway.  When Lindy finally arrived, having extended her tour up British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast, down Vancouver Island, and through the Gulf Islands and the San Juan Islands, we had a good visit talking “shop” about weaving and comparing Warm Showers hosting notes.

I rode out with her to the edge of town to send her on her way to the Pacific Coast route, where she intends to use the Pacific County transit to get across the 6.7 km Megler-Astoria bridge and to bypass the Big Sur detour by train.   More and more, our avocation is evolving as touring with bicycle rather than touring by bicycle as it becomes easier to incorporate public transit into our bicycle travel plans.  So it goes.  We’re planning another summer like 2015, when we traveled by auto to family events and rode our bicycle on trails along the way.

Warm Showers 2016, Part 2

This summer, the 40th Anniversary of the Adventure Cycling Association (nee BikeCentennial), has brought a surge of bicycle tourists.  No sooner had we clicked “Publish” on Part 1 of our guest gallery post that we got another round of requests.

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Conor and Erin, former Peace Corps volunteers using a bike tour to settle into life back in the U.S. after 2-1/2 years in Tanzania.
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Daniela and Christian, from Karlsruhe, Germany.

We had made plans to have our 14-year-old grandson visit us from Wisconsin in mid-August, after which we would drive him home and spend some time bicycling trails and back roads around Wisconsin and Michigan, for a second, gentler tour this year.

So, as of August 1, we put ourselves on the “not available for hosting” list with Warm Showers, having already accepted an advance request for the first week in August.  Another family from Germany, this time with two small adventurers in tow, 15 and 18 months old.  We’ve hosted babies and toddlers every couple of years or so, and the occasional dog who would rather ride bicycles than chase them.  The youngsters readily take to the traveling life, with the bicycle just another piece of furniture in their open-air home.

Stefanie and Ingitha, with their two toddlers in tow (behind Ingitha); Stefanie tows the supply trailer.
Stefanie and Ingitha, with their two toddlers in tow (behind Ingitha); Stefanie tows the supply trailer.
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We keep a supply of toys left over from when our grandsons lived with us, to entertain our younger bicycle tourist guests.

Even though we were on the “not available” list, we got one more request, via a referral by an earlier guest. In the age of the Internet, the best way to plan a bicycle tour is to search for the stories of others who have gone before, in blogs, the “Crazy Guy on a Bike” journal, Facebook, Instagram, etc. Angela, corresponding with Nico, whom she had never met, got our name and contact information and called, having arrived in Shelton late in the day with no plans. Angela had met Mira, a Czech cyclist, earlier in the day. Of course, we took them in. Mira had a meeting set up in San Francisco, so forged on ahead after they reached Astoria, but we continue to track Angela on her journey as she overcomes hardships and meets new friends on the road, as we have many other guests over the past five years, now numbering over 150. And, now and then, we succumb to that urge for the open road and adventure at 10-15km/hr and set off on our own quest.

Angela, from Canada and Mira, from the Czech Republic, riding together for a few days on their separate tours.
Angela, from Canada and Mira, from the Czech Republic, riding together for a few days on their separate tours.  Angela was three days into her first long-distance tour, and Mira was finishing the last stage of a tour of the Americas that took him from Argentina to Los Angeles and Alaska to Washington, headed for San Francisco.

As I write this, we are in Wisconsin, having dropped off our grandson near Madison and circled Lake Michigan by car, taking time to ride when we can: a return to Mackinac Island in Lake Huron, riding a shoreline trail on the west shore of Lake Michigan, and riding around Washington Island, at the northern tip of Door County, Wisconsin, covering a bit less than 100km on the bike and over 5000km in the car.  The weather has been variable, with late summer thunderstorms dictating when and where we ride, making us glad we have the car to transport us between scenic trails, and to check out road and terrain conditions before we commit to a ride.

Warm Showers 2016, Part 1

Despite our absence on our own shortened “Beyond 70” tour mid-March through mid-May, 2016 brought a steady stream of Warm Showers guests. We had to turn down a few while we participated in the NorthWest Tandem Rally in Klamath Falls, Oregon over the July 4th week, and plan to take a short break at the end of July to get in some more cycling and camping before heading east at the end of August for an early September tour of Door County, Wisconsin. This entry covers the 39 guests we have had through 22 July (including Toph, the dog).

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Cara came through in early March, headed south. With El Nino, the bicycle touring season in the Pacific Northwest is nearly year-around.
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Carina and Mat, from the U.K., arrived in mid-May, traveling from south to north on the Pacific Coast.
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Nico, from Iowa, traveling down the Pacific Coast at a more leisurely pace than most. As of this writing, he was in Los Angeles.
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Mark and Seth also traveled down the Pacific Coast.
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Simon, from Switzerland, was a “drop-in,” guided to our house from downtown by our neighbor after finding there were no campgrounds nearby. He was already a Warm Showers member, but hadn’t made firm plans for daily distance, counting on finding campgrounds near the end of the day. Simon was touring south on the Pacific Coast route.
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Justin was riding north to British Columbia and points east, to the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, having cycled from his home in mid-Texas to California and up the Sierra Crest route.
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Betty and Robert, AirBnB hosts and new Warm Showers members from Vancouver, BC, were touring to San Francisco.
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Lisa, headed north from Portland to tour the Canadian Rockies, crossing paths with Tony and his dog Toph, below.

During the busy part of the summer, we often get multiple requests for the same night. Sometimes the travelers are headed the same direction and may meet on the road, but sometimes they are headed in opposite directions, as were Lisa and Tony. Tony had rescheduled because of the medical emergency with Toph. We have plenty of room, with three guest rooms, large open porch, and large format leather furniture in the living room, having hosted seven once.

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Tony, from southern California, was traveling the Pacific Coast route with his small dog, Toph. Our cat insists that dogs camp outside, so Tony and Toph pitched their tent on the porch.
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Toph cut her feet on shells on a beach a few days before and the cuts got infected, so she got the dreaded cone the day before she and Tony arrived.
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Brian and Heather, finishing a loop around the Olympic Peninsula.

Shelton is a nexus for several popular routes: The most used is the Pacific Coast Route, with riders chosing the ACA route between Bremerton and Elma, or riding down U.S. 101 from either Port Townsend or Port Angeles. Some choose to take a short cut to Centralia via Olympia (or around Olympia on Delphi Road, skirting the Capitol Forest), and some head west from Elma for a more direct route via U.S. 101 and the 6800-meter-long Megler-Astoria Bridge across the Columbia River. Some extend to the Washington coast at Westport. The Olympic Peninsula Loop is also popular, but most riders continue south along the coast from Aberdeen, so bypass us entirely. Some riders starting or ending in Seattle also choose to follow the route of the Seattle-To-Portland ride, east of Puget Sound, and also bypass Shelton. This year, we’ve gotten riders who have ridden the Sierra Crest Trail through California and Oregon and continue on the Pacific Coast Route to Vancouver. We also have gotten, from time to time, Trans-Am riders who head up the coast from Newport, Oregon to Seattle to fly home.

And, there are some riders who are in the middle of a Grand Tour, either from Alaska or the Yukon Territory to South America or a loop tour of the U.S., via the Southern Tier, Pacific Coast or Sierra Crest, and Northern Tier. And, of course, riders to and from Portland, Oregon, the undisputed bicycle capital of the West Coast. Not everyone stops in Shelton: we see a lot of riders throughout the day, passing through, and some who stop at motels, the other Warm Showers host on the north side of town, or Couch Surfing hosts.

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Glenn and Bobbie had ridden across the Southern Tier from Florida to California and up the Sierra Crest Route, headed for the San Juan islands.

Another night with two groups: Veteran tourists Glenn and Bobbie, finishing their tour at Anacortes, while Jason and Amy, below, first-time tourists, were just starting a cross-country tour. Conversation is interesting when comparing notes. From our own experience touring the Canadian Rockies 28 years ago, much of the fun is meeting and sharing stories with other tourists on the road.

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Jason and Amy were headed north from Portland to Anacortes to join friends on the Northern Tier route to the East Coast.
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Ana, a graduate student at UBC in Vancouver, BC, was taking a summer break from her studies to ride the northern half of the Pacific Coast route.
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Mark finished the Trans-Am route from Virginia to Oregon and intended to take a break from cycling to hike in Colorado before heading back east on the Northern Tier route. He stayed a couple of days to recover from a bout of food poisoning, a risk when food stops are sometimes limited to convenience stores.

After Mark headed north toward Seattle, we clamped our Bike Friday tandem on top of the car and headed down the Oregon Coast, following the route of many of our guests. We spent the night at an AirB&B near Seal Rock, a nice couple who recommended a gastrobpub nearby and fed us a nice breakfast. We then drove to Eugene to augment our Bike Friday accessories and ride the wonderful trails, staying at an AirB&B downtown across from a brewery and pub. After another stop in Rogue River to visit relatives, we spent several days at Klamath Falls, along with 650 other tandem riders, for the 30th Anniversary Northwest Tandem Rally. Then, we headed north, following the Sierra Crest Route to Bend, then over the Cascades to camp at the beautiful Silver Falls State Park, hiking to several of the breathtaking waterfalls.

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Judy with Julia, Christina, and Dana, friends from Ottawa, Canada cycling from Vancouver to San Francisco.

While camping in Oregon, we got several Warm Showers requests, which we regretfully had to decline. But we would be home in time to receive Christina and her friends. Knowing we were arriving from our own trip at about the same time, they graciously offered to bring and cook dinner. What a fun evening, and it gave us time to unpack before they arrived.

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Hugh (right) and Liam, a father-son team cycling the Pacific Coast route from their home in North Vancouver, BC.
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Chris, from southern California, cycling back home from Vancouver, BC. Chris’ arrival got delayed a day to ship his front rack and panniers home to lighten the load on the hills ahead, on his first self-supported tour.
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Jamine, Taylor, Mia, and Nicole, housemates from Portland on a tour to Bellingham.
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Jacy and Tom, on the last day of their tour from New York to Virginia to Oregon to Seattle.
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Ryan, from Philadelphia, on tour on the Pacific Coast, starting from Vancouver.

Jacy, Tom, and Ryan arrived about the same time, from different directions, and at different ends of their tours. It was interesting to see the contrast between seasoned tourists about to finish a long tour and someone just starting out. Many of our travelers start in Vancouver or Seattle, on their first long tour, and are just finding their limits, so they arrive in that period of doubt about the feasibility of continuing on, whether the destination is 200, 2,000 or 20,000 kilometers away. This year, the 40th anniversary of the Trans-Am tour and founding of the Adventure Cycling Association, has seen more riders finishing that tour with a final week-long dash from Newport, Oregon to Seattle, as well as riders following the warm weather north on the relatively new Sierra Crest route.

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Ludo, Pierre, and Phillip, friends from Montreal, cycling from the Pacific Coast. They intended to start in Seattle, but had to switch plans to start in Vancouver, so rescheduled to arrive three days later than planned.

Seasoned tourists Pierre and Ludo, knowing how hard it is to fill up hungry cyclists, supplemented our pizza and salad offering with a pound of spaghetti, with pesto sauce, and also broke out packets of oatmeal in the morning to supplement our bagel/cold cereal/fruit. buffet

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Genie and Lydia, a mother-daughter team on the last day of their tour. Lydia started her tour in Paraguay 19 months ago, and Genie joined her in Los Angeles for the trip north, riding the Sierra Crest to Yosemite, and the Pacific Coast the rest of the way, ending in Seattle.

Genie and Lydia had arranged to meet Brad, a cycle tourist they met in the Sierras, who lives in Puyallup, for dinner, so invited us along as well. A fun evening, at a local BBQ restaurant we hadn’t been to before, being vegetarian. However, we found lots of good items on the menu with meat optional.

As has been our custom, we publish two lists of Warm Showers guests, divided at mid-summer or before and after our own tour, typically in late summer. This year, we changed tour plans in mid-tour, breaking up what was to be a four-month expedition into a series of short tours and weekend cycle/camping outings. We’re probably going to be unavailable most of the rest of the summer now, with our own travel schedules, but will, no doubt, take in tourists when we are home for more than a few days.