Category Archives: Bicycling

Warm Showers 2013 – mid-Season

2013 has been a bumper year for bicycle touring in the Pacific Northwest. As of the July 4th weekend, we have already had 21 visitors. The Europeans know how to vacation, with quarter, half-year, or year-long sabbaticals to tour the world on a bicycle. Most of the Canadians and Americans so far have been on either college graduation tour, singly or in groups, or retirement celebrations. We’ve had one guest moving to a new job in California on her bicycle, BOB trailer in tow. All so far have been traveling north to south, but by different routes: some on the Adventure Cycling Pacific Coast route through Elma, Centralia, Castle Rock, and Cathlamet to Astoria, but the more adventurous have chosen their own routes, to brave the 6.5-Km long, 60-meter high Astoria-Megler Bridge. And some have taken the equally high but shorter Lewis and Clark Bridge between Longview and Rainier toward Portland, the bicycle capital of the Pacific Northwest.

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Andreas, from Germany, touring Canada and the Northwestern U.S.
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Bastien, from France, touring Florida to D.C., Vancouver to L.A., Australia, and New Zealand
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Brendan, Canada: graduation tour (U. of Manitoba), Vancouver to San Francisco
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Erik, Craig, and Joe, friends from U. of Nebraska, touring the Pacific Coast. Erik’s disc brake broke, so we ferried him to Olympia for parts and repairs.
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John (from Virginia) and Tom (from Texas), buddies since the Peace Corps in 1970s, celebrating recent respective retirements with a tour of the Pacific Coast.
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MacKenzie, moving from Seattle to San Francisco to a new job, with a little help from mom, to reprise their Southern Tier tour of 10 years ago.
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Us with the “Penn State 5,” as we dubbed them, on a graduation tour of the Pacific Coast.
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Roze and Davy, from Belgium, finishing the North American leg of their world tour, which included New Zealand and Central America
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Sam and Ben, brothers from Montana, on a fund-raising tour of the Pacific Coast to follow up last year’s Montana-to-Key West tour.
Lena and Nick, from Switzerland, touring Vancouver to Central America
Lena and Nick, from Switzerland, touring Vancouver to Central America

Spring Bicycling Season Starts with a Bang (and Concussion)

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Eager to get a start on the 2013 cycling season, we packed up our Bike Friday “Q” tandem and headed for an anniversary retreat on Lake Quinault, the southwest access to the Olympic National Park.  It was a wonderful spring day, not to cool, not too warm for a ride along the south shore and up the river into the Park.

Judy at Merriman Falls, Quinault South Shore Road.
Judy at Merriman Falls, Quinault South Shore Road.

The journey took an hour and a half, compressed into a 12-minute video of the highlights, below:

quinaultride from Larye Parkins on Vimeo.

The road does go all around the lake, but we had decided that was a bit too far for the first long ride of the season, so we turned around at the bridge across the river and retraced our path back to the ranger station, for a 35-Km ride. Later, we relaxed at the historic Lake Quinault Lodge, where we had stayed on our honeymoon, 28 years ago.
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This was on Monday. On Friday, we decided to combine business with pleasure to get in some more riding. We loaded up the bike and drove to our son’s house in Olympia, near the Olympia-Woodland bicycle trail. In the morning, we rode east, then south on the Chehalis-Western Trail.

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We turned around at the 10Km mark, where the rail-trail followed a dirt path along the present-day Amtrak line to detour along Rainier Road, and returned to our son’s house, using a side trail into his neighborhood.

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Collecting our materials for our afternoon meeting, we headed back to the trail and continued west into downtown Olympia, to Traditions Cafe, on 5th and Water, a 5-km downhill cruise from the trail into the heart of the city, highlights shown in this video, to contrast with the wilderness tour earlier in the week:

Cycling Downtown Olympia from Larye Parkins on Vimeo.

After the meeting, we retraced our route (picking a more bicycle-friendly route out of the city core, on Legion Ave), we made the sharp turn onto the side path shown above, when disaster struck. The thin layer of leaves at the start of the path turned out to hide a layer of wet, slippery mud, and the front wheel skidded to the left, dumping us on our right sides heavily onto the asphalt trail.

I sustained a few abrasions, lacerations, and bruises, from falling on hip, back (cell phone in rear jersey pocket), elbow, shoulder, and helmet. But, Judy fell on her right shoulder and head. It quickly became apparent that, not only did she not remember falling, but she did not know where she was or what year it was, just that her neck and shoulder hurt.

With other injuries being minor, we remounted the bike and continued on the 300 meters to our car. Judy’s confusion continued, and my elbow was bleeding profusely, so we left the bike at our son’s house and drove to the Urgent Care Clinic. Being a Friday night in the city, the backlog for a CT scan at the nearby hospital was several hours, during which time her confusion continued, with complete amnesia, unable to maintain a thread of conversation more than 20 seconds without repeating the question. All she knew for sure was that we were in a medical facility in our bike clothes, and her shoulder and neck hurt, so something bad must have happened.

We don’t know a lot about the workings of memory in people, but we have devised information storage systems that, when they fail, act a lot like a person with a concussion.  Brain science currently classifies memory as short-term (like looking up a phone number and then dialing it) and long-term (like that spectacular Bitterroot sunset in 2001), but what happens when a person sustains a head injury and suffers an episode of amnesia is more like when a computer “crashes.”  In a computer system, “short term memory” are things we put in the processor registers and never commit to disk storage at all.  In a person, and in a computer, events that happened recently that we intend to remember get put in volatile (meaning it goes away if we lose power) memory, then gets transferred to disk (long-term memory) over a period of a few seconds to minutes, sometimes hours.  At the same time, we periodically make a second copy of everything we want to keep, in case something happens to the primary disk.

When we have a brain injury, all the short-term memory gets wiped out–we don’t have any recollection of what we were doing at the moment of injury.  If severe enough, we don’t remember anything that happened for several hours before the incident, because a “backup” copy never got made, and we have to rebuild the medium-term memories from existing backups.  When a computer disk is physically damaged, we can work around the damaged area and restore the lost data from backup, but need to take the entire disk off-line while this is done.  When we first build a computer, we make a “recovery disk” that contains the computer’s identity and the network environment, like a person’s name and the names and images of close family members.  When a person has persistent amnesia lasting several hours, it is like this: we may know our name and recognize family members and know their names, but don’t remember what day it is, and, because the “disk” containing our long-term memory is being rebuilt, we can’t store any short-term memory, so the entire time it takes for the pathways to be rebuilt to access the copy of our long-term memory, we don’t remember, either, after the damage is repaired.

Judy was lucky that she apparently didn’t have any internal bleeding, because that can block recovery of memories and functions for a long time, if not permanently, but she has not retained nor can she recover the memories from a few hours before the accident until we put ice on her head about eight hours afterward to reduce swelling and allow some short term memories to be saved and older memories to be recovered.

The next test will be, after she has recovered fully (I’ve said this will be after my external bruises, corresponding to her internal bruises, have faded completely), to resume riding.  Even though she has no memory of the accident, there seems to be a deeper, physical memory not consciously accessible, and she might have some anxiety that can’t be rationalized.  Time will tell.  But, we have enjoyed traveling by bicycle so much that we should be able to overcome any such fears.  Though, when I went for a ride by myself today, I was extra-cautious about muddy areas and areas of loose gravel.  Two-wheeled vehicles are light, efficient, and highly maneuverable, but they are much more susceptible to irregular surfaces and local friction than 4-wheel vehicles.

Resting at home, with book, warm fire, and lap cat.
Resting at home, with book, warm fire, and lap cat.
Riding to Olympia with our first Warm Showers guest of the season, Andreas. (at Island Market, halfway)
Riding to Olympia with our first Warm Showers guest of the season, Andreas. (at Island Market, halfway)

Warm Showers 2012

As the winter wet and cold settles in on the Pacific Northwest, we bring another bicycle touring season to a close.  In addition, we are currently sans shower, in the fifth week of a major bathroom remodel, so we put away the “Welcome Cyclists” mat at the beginning of October this year.

2012 was a banner year for Warm Showers guests — we hosted 18 cyclists in all, up from 13 last year.  Because of scheduling or availability, we turned down nearly as many.  Once again, the Pacific Coast Route proved to be the big draw for cyclists from all over the world.  We had guests from Seattle, Korea, Nova Scotia, Yukon, British Columbia, Australia, New Zealand, Idaho, California, and Germany.  Riders were mostly north to south, but we had two groups cycling from south to north.

We live close to the Adventure Cycling Association’s Pacific Coast Route, which starts in Vancouver, BC and passes through Whidbey Island, Port Townsend, Bremerton, Shelton, Elma, Centralia, and Cathlamet on the way to Astoria, but we also had many travelers who chose their own way, crossing to or from Victoria and Port Angeles and up or down US 101 along the Hood Canal.  Some rode the dangerous WA Highway 3 between Belfair and Shelton, and some rode the south shore drive all the way to US 101 rather than grinding up the hill to Mason Lake.  Some followed Cloquallum Road to or from Elma, and some chose to get to or from Centralia via Olympia.  A few kept westward at Elma and braved the 3.5-mile-long Megler Bridge at Astoria.  And some headed to Portland rather than Astoria.

We live halfway up a steep hill, so getting in and out of our neighborhood with a minimum of climbing is a tricky bit of navigation, so we often met travelers inbound to guide them to our house.  We also rode with guests in the morning to guide them on their way, especially the ones who were using auto maps instead of the bicycle route maps.  We also provided printed Google maps for alternate routing.

Sarah, on a quick solo trip from Seattle to Santa Barbara, CA.  This is at the Buck’s Prairie Store, halfway to Elma.
Lang, from Korea, on the second half of an Anchorage to Los Angeles tour, after wintering over in Vancouver to replace a stolen bike.
Becca and Kate, from Nova Scotia, northbound from San Francisco to Victoria. They elected to seek out a Warm Showers host in Bremerton rather than camp in the rain along the Hood Canal, so I rode with them a few miles to point them in the right direction.
Justin and Ritchie, bicycle racers from Cal Poly, on an ambitious speed run from the Canadian border to home.
Gordon and Steve, 70-something recumbent riders, intending to ride from Bellingham to Eureka, but abandoned in Tumwater due to heat and hills, after enjoying a couple days of relatively level riding through Elma to Rochester
Areef, from Vancouver, and Don, from northern California, who weren’t traveling together, but booked at the same Warm Showers stops a couple nights.  Areef was headed for the Oregon coast, Don for Portland to join an ACA tour.
Ben and Lauren, Harvard grad students from Idaho, traveling north, San Francisco to Seattle. This was their last day on the road.
Julia, from Australia, riding from Victoria to Hood River, Oregon for a wedding, on a year-long biking sabbatical to visit relatives in North America.  I led her out to Hwy 3 to Olympia.
Jayshil, from New Zealand, on tour from Vancouver to Los Angeles.
Marty and Pierrette, four months into a 3-year wander, after selling everything in the Yukon.  They, too, headed for Olympia to shave 25km off the ride to Centralia.  Follow their travels at twotravelingturtles.wordpress.com
Yvonne and Danika, from Germany, on a one-year tour from Yukon to Panama.
Yvonne and Danika, from Germany, on a one-year tour from Yukon to Panama.  They were using auto maps and major highways, so I led them to Cloquallum Road to head them toward Elma on back roads.

“Birthday Ride” 2012 – 69 Miles

In 2004, inspired by bicycle touring pioneer Shirley Braxton, we decided to have an incentive to continue bicycling regularly by planning a “birthday miles” ride, in which you ride, in one day, as many miles as you are old.  This was a good plan, as we often get “too busy” to ride, resulting in some late-season catch-up training and then a “grueling test of endurance” on ride day.  2012 was no exception.

Having planned overnight bike trips that somehow never were realized, a few short rides, and sporadic riding, I decided in late September to start training, which consisted mainly of solo rides of 30, 43, and 22 miles, with a 10-mile tandem ride thrown in for good measure, and no real plan for the “big ride,” somewhere between the La Conner Quilt Fest in early October and a trip to Montana in mid-October…

As it turned out, my Saturday class at the Quilt Fest was cancelled, so I moved to a Friday class, leaving Saturday open.  Ah, a good opportunity for a ride.  We had first discovered the La Conner Quilt and Textile Museum while riding the MS Tour in 2005, 2006, and 2007, stopping at the museum at the end of the first day’s 50-mile ride.  The second day’s ride was a loop through the Skagit Valley up into the foothills to the north, then back.  The MS Tour used to be called the MS150, and the route included 75-mile options, the northern loop which stretched past Lake Samish to Bellingham and then back down scenic Chuckanut Drive to join the 50-mile loop at Edison.  We avoided the 75-mile route during the MS Tour because we knew we probably couldn’t finish in the 8-hour time limit, usually reduced to 7:15 because we were in the back of the starting order, and because the extended route had even more hills.

So, with the only restriction being to be back in La Conner by 5:30 or so, I set off at 7:45, bundled against the temps in the mid-40s, shedding some layers by the time I reached the base of Bow Hill.  Climbing to the 20-mile mark, where the MS Tour split, I would be in new territory.  Ahead, I saw a cyclist pull out onto the road, headed north.  Giving chase, I caught up with him in a couple miles.  Dan was about my age, and out for his Saturday morning loop, which would take us to the county park at the north end of Lake Samish, so I asked if I could ride with him.  His route deviated from my planned route, climbing high into the hills before swooping down onto the west side of the lake.

Dan, who was my tour guide between mile 20 and mile 30.

As Dan headed back south, I continued around the north side of the lake, then up a steep climb to Bellingham, turning on the Old Samish Road.

Lake Samish, looking south.

At Chuckanut Drive, I turned north, over the hill into the Fairhaven section of Bellingham, a small city absorbed by the larger on, now a thriving neighborhood of shops and businesses as well as the cruise ship terminal for cruises to Alaska. My lunch stop was a coffee and scone at Tony’s Coffee, a Fairhaven landmark for many decades.

Lunching at Tony’s Coffee shop in Fairhaven

Chuckanut Drive, Washington State Highway 11, is a popular scenic drive that winds down the steep coastline from Fairhaven to the Skagit Valley. For bicylists, it is a harrowing passage of steep climbs, limited shoulders with no guardrail, and heavy auto traffic. However, the vistas of the San Juan Islands are not to be missed. At bicycle speeds, every scenic turnout becomes a photo opportunity.

Samish Bay and Lummi Island

After a snack stop at Larrabee State Park and some further adjustments to the shifting, we press on. Dense forest lines both sides of the winding road, but the scenic turnouts soon reveal vistas of Padilla Bay and south to Fidalgo Island and the Swinomish Channel that divides Fidalgo from the tulip fields of Skagit valley.

Padilla Bay, looking south from Chuckanut Drive

Soon, the highway begins a long, winding descent into the valley. I rejoin the old familiar MS Tour short route at Bow Hill Road, stopping at the bakery in the old town of Edison, crossing many tidal channels before climbing again toward Bay View, where the constant vibration of riding on chip-sealed roads sends my front reflector flying off into the woods.

Mount Baker, seen from south of Edison

The downhill into Bay View offers a chance to cruise at the posted speed (25): a truck towing a boat fails to pass. After another brief uphill out of the seaside village, I pull off the road onto a bike/pedestrian path that follows the shoreline. The surface is smooth, and a brisk tailwind quickly powers me through the marshes and back onto the road, just reaching the 60-mile mark.

The Padilla Bay bike/walking path, which follows the shoreline for several miles.
The city of Anacortes and Guemes Island, from the Padilla Bay trail.

The tailwind speeds me through the now-dormant flower fields. At the traffic circle at the edge of La Conner, I calculate I am about two miles short for my mileage count, so I head east and south, then turn back and roll through downtown La Conner, ending where I started, at the historic Planter Hotel at the south end of main street. The odometer reads 112.01 Km, elapsed time, 8:41. It is just about 4:30pm, plenty of time to put away the bike and shower before our 6:30pm evening program.

Warm Showers 2011

The gallery of Warm Showers travelers hosted in 2011.  Warm Showers is an international on-line community of bicycle tourists who share lodging with fellow tourists.  Since we live on the Adventure Cycling Pacific Coast Route and popular routes for tours of the Olympic Peninsula an Hood Canal, we have the opportunity to host bicycle tourists almost every week that we are home during the season, which lasts roughly from early May through late October.

Todd – Vancouver, BC – Imperial Beach, CA
Heather and Adam – Lacey, WA to San Juan Islands to Seattle

Stefaan and Mark: Vancouver, BC – Imperial Beach, CA
Ray – www.biketouringtips.com – Olympic tour, Washington/Oregon
Peter : Yukon to Tierra del Fuego
Laura and Gabi – Seattle to San Francisco
Rueben, Heidi, Eden, and Harper – Toronto to Cheyenne, Vancouver, BC to Panama City, Panama, Richmond to Toronto: one year, 8000 miles.