Tour 2015 – Day 35: Faribault to Jackson

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Blue heron patiently fishing at the base of the mill dam at Faribault Woolen Mills

After visiting The Coffee Shop, and the Milltown Bike Shop next door in Faribault (pronounced Fair-boh, for those not familiar with Minnesota’s history with French-Canadian fur traders in the 18th century), we ducked into the Faribault Woolen Mill store, but, alas, no mill leavings, only finished goods, so we traveled on.

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Faribault Woolen Mill

Rather than wander aimlessly in the gloom (it didn’t rain on us today), we decided to show up in Jackson a day early, but first detoured west up the Minnesota River to New Ulm, a German settlement I had last visited in 1959, playing a gig for Polka Days with my band, “Der Wienerschnitzel.” I think their festival has been moved off the streets into a more contained space in these times, but it was pretty wild then. I didn’t remember much about the town, other than the free-flowing beer and meeting Whoopee John, the famous polka band leader, but this time, we found the architecture and area fascinating enough to plan a return trip on our way north next week.

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Monument in New Ulm to Herrmann of Cherusci, who fended off the Roman Army in the 9th Century, ensuring German independence.

On to Jackson. We arrived in time to check in and unpack before going downtown to meet my cousin and her husband and my aunt for a fund-raiser dinner at the American Legion. I didn’t have trouble finding the building, as my dad and I were in the Post 130 Drum and Bugle Corps in the late 1950s, and the building was still there. Of course, I was reminded of the $6 empty plate with trimmings I enjoyed at the Texas steakhouse last month: for me,  dinner consisted of a bare bun, carrots, celery, and some potato chips–pork loin and bacon (in the beans) are not vegetables, last I looked. I could lose a bit of weight touring in a part of the country where all the crops are animal feed and the animals are food, and where almost all dishes, even salads and vegetable sides, include parts of some species of beastie. On the way back to our lodging, we picked up an avocado and some yoghurt, so maybe not time for weight loss after all…

Tour 2015 – Day 34: Winona to Faribault

County Courthouse, Winona
County Courthouse, Winona

We awoke at sunrise to a dry camp, but rain predicted for later in the day, so we quickly struck the tent and packed before heading for the showers and off on yet another day of adventure.  To our surprise, the levee road west led to a small community and a way out to the mainland, following the Mississippi River Trail bike route signs.

Fortunately, we had elected not to ride our bike this morning on this exploration, as it rained briefly on the way.  We circled back to the Blue Heron Coffeehouse in downtown Winona,. then photographed some of the magnificent buildings–churches with towering steeples and the county courthouse.

High water on the Mississippi, near the Minnesota Marine Art Museum.
High water on the Mississippi, near the Minnesota Marine Art Museum.

We had been advised that the Minnesota Marine Art Museum in Winona was not to be missed, so we wandered the parking lot until opening time, 10:00.  What a gem!  The permanent collection contained a huge representation of American art from the Hudson River School and a more eclectic collection including a Georgia O’ Keefe painting and the original rendition of Washington Crossing the Delaware that hung in the White House for many years.  A few of the works depicted scenes of the Mississippi Valley in the 19th century.  Another gallery had many European Expressionist and Impressionist works, including  Seurat, Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso, and many more.

Tug and barges at the Winona grain terminal
Tug and loaded barges at the Winona grain terminal

With no firm plan, other than we need to be in Jackson sometime Friday afternoon, three days hence, we continued our meander upriver, toward a darkening sky.  Torrential rains pounded us as we neared Red Wing, our lunch destination.

We decided to head west, now.  Online, bargain rooms at motels seemed to be filling quickly: Mankato was full, so we chose Faribault, made a reservation, and continued on, the rain having subsided, true to the “scattered thunderstorm” prediction.  A quick loop through downtown Northfield, home to St. Olaf and Carleton Colleges and where Jesse James and gang robbed the bank in their northernmost foray, and then on to Faribault.  The deluge resumed on our return from dinner out.  No tenting or bicycling for the next few days, until the weather improves.

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